Thursday, June 27, 2019

Re-Designing the BH Cosmetics Mini-Zodiac Cancer Palette

When I first heard, many months ago, that BH Cosmetics' spin-off of their two large zodiac palettes was going to be a set of the mini-palettes for each of the 12 signs, I thought it was a rather creative idea that had the potential to be great.

Well, I was quite wrong. Beginning with the Capricorn palette, each palette has been mostly met with disappointment or ambivalence, primarily due to the fact that the color selections did not jive with people's perceptions/interpretations of the signs.

Before we delve a little deeper into what BH Cosmetics did for the Cancer sign, I do want to give a bit of a disclaimer. I belong to the camp that believes zodiac and horoscope stuff is fun, and the opposite of scientific. I don't think we can justify behavior according to someone's star sign.

That being said, if it doesn't hurt people and allows people to have a way to express and/or understand themselves in different ways, why not?

Personally, I do think that I am pretty representative of the Cancer sign, and I was someone who looked at BH Cosmetics' release and did not respond to it at all:


Based on the brand description of "lunar hues," they seemed to build the palette around the Moon. And while it certainly is smokey and cool-toned and evocative of the sea, it's definitely missing the warmth and prettiness I think a Cancer would appreciate.

The mock-up, which I have already posted to Instagram, is by no means a definitive Cancer palette, but something I tried to construct as more usable, interesting, and cohesive. I hope you enjoy!


1. The center shade is MAC Dazzlepink highlighter.  I think a lot of brands are playing with the idea of pink highlighter, and for a sign that is based on emotion and warmth, I think pink is a great color- especially a cooler-toned one with a more sheer base so that the highlighter can be used on a multitude of skin tones. I personally do not own Dazzlepink, but I do have a couple of highlighters in my collection that belong to the same family of pink-reflect highlighters: MAC Snowflushed (extremely glittery), Nabla Divinzer, Colourpop Everybody's Got a Weakness, Nabla Millenium (more of a peach reflect), and Looxi Stripped (has more of a white base but a strong cool pink reflect).

2. Then, moving clockwise at "12 o'clock", we have Nabla City Wolf. I chose this shade because it is a cool-toned medium gray that still evokes some of the feeling of the original palette- those sultry lunar vibes.

3. Speaking of lunar vibes, I wanted some gorgeous shimmers in there that were strange and duochrome and evocative of sea glass and shells, so I went with Earthshine by Colourpop. I do not personally own Earthshine, but similar colors are Glass Bull from Colourpop and Charmed by Looxi.

4. But I knew I needed a cool-toned red berry, to stand for passion, depth, the heart, and the crab. I chose Cascade from Lethal Cosmetics, because I almost bought it the other day, but stopped myself because I own the Modern Renaissance palette. That being said, I think Cascade is redder and warmer than Love Letter, but not enough for me to go and buy it.

5. I knew I wanted a neutral-ish shimmer, because I wanted to give the people options! However, I chose a silver-gold that I have been obsessed with for the longest time- Metallurgy from Pat McGrath. It looks nice and sandy in the palette, but also provides a bit of familiarity, color-wise.

6. Remember when I talked about sea glass? Well, this next shade is literal glass. It does not exist looking like this, but I really really wish something came out that is comparable. For the meantime, I am looking at Clionadh's multichrome shadows, specifically the shades Torch and Engrave. I thought this "shade" really captured the more imaginative side of Cancers.

7. MAC Uninterrupted- a classic Caramel shade. I think Cancers can be quite sweet and warm, and this shade is meant to capture that, as well as provide a neutral option for the shimmers, or even pair with the more vibrant mattes.

8. Papaya Juice by Prima Makeup. Prior to this project I had never heard of this brand, but I was on the hunt for a coral-like color that was the perfect balance of orange and red. I think this would pair brilliantly with Uninterrupted or Cascade, and definitely shows the passionate side of the Cancer.

9. Finally, Sydney Grace Officer. I wanted a cool-toned purple bruise shade- because (no joke) crabs also are blue, but also to represent the very deep funks and moods we can get ourselves in. Officer also functions as an excellent deepening shade for a variety of warm and cool colors.

This week I'll try to follow up with some looks inspired by this palette. And, who knows, maybe I'll make more mock-ups in the future!

Thanks for reading.

Sunday, June 23, 2019

Menagerie Cosmetics: Feral Palette and Single Shadows Swatches and Review

Towards the end of February, I purchased the Feral Palette from Menagerie Cosmetics for $40.00. Each pan contained 2g of product each. Though the color palette was definitely out of my comfort zone, it was one of those cases where I couldn't get it out of my head (cue Kylie Minogue). It reminded me of a field of wildflowers, and though I barely knew anything about the brand, I decided to take the leap.

The palette feels sturdy and is small-medium in size. Its packaging feels pretty luxe, and worth the cost. But, let's get into the shadows.


1. Harmonia, a green blue matte. This is a super pigmented yet soft shade. 

2. Wolfling, a coppery metallic base with a very strong pink reflect and sparkle. This shimmer formula is incredibly soft, so I advise caution when using it- a sticky base and a light hand is needed. The end result is gorgeous and very sparkly. 

3. Canis Lupis, a milk chocolate matte. Very easy to blend. 

4. Alpha, a darker matte taupe. This one required a little bit of building- but is soft and easy to work with. I find the color quite unique- depending on the other colors, it can come off more green or more brown. 

5. Pack Leader. Seems a little more densely packed than Wolfling. It is a hot pink metallic with a gold sheen. The gold comes out more with glitter glue, and/or using it against other hot pink colors. This one stains. 

6. Allium. A swatch of this is also in my second set below. A cooler-toned shade of purple that is one of the more "drier" mattes- but very easy to blend out. 


Second set! 

7. The bright red/orange is Mariposa. Highly pigmented and blendable.

8. Night Eyes. A true yellow. Its strong white base is being a little reflected in the flash photo above- in person, it reads a bit darker. Very blendable and bright, though. 

9. Wisteria. A matte hot coral. It stained my skin slightly, but also very easy to work with. As with Night Eyes, the picture is showing the swatch a bit lighter than it really is. 

10. Fenris. A yellow-toned matte green that is more densely pressed. It builds up evenly and quickly, though. 

11. For me, Ivy was probably the most intimidating at first- it is a dark matte green. However, it still has a soft formula and just requires careful and deliberate placement before blending out. 

12. Huechera, a highly reflective and flakey green with some golden sheen. This one definitely stained. 

Okay, so as much as I was enjoying the colors and formula of the original Feral Palette, I also wanted to branch out and buy some singles to make my own custom palette. It ended up being quite neutral, so I renamed the palette The Domestic Palette. Funny, right?

The new shades are:
1. Lucky ($5.00), a light peachy gold metallic
2. Mother Dragon ($4.00), from the Dragon Child palette, a dark matte burgundy. 
3. Canary ($5.00), a light warm yellow metallic shimmer with a strong pink glitter reflect
4. Snuggle ($4.00), a warm pastel pink
5. Snoot ($4.00) a soft rose-brown matte

The palette ended up looking like this:


Lucky, Canary, Snuggle, Snoot, and Mother Dragon

The two shimmers had the same formulation as Wolfling- very soft and requiring some sticky base. I probably didn't need to get Canary- its strong pink reflect makes it kind of repetitive among the other shimmers in the palette. Lucky, though, is proving to be quite multi-functional, with its slight silvery sheen that can be paired with both warm and cool colors. 

I was quite pleased with Snuggle- I had not yet owned a warm pastel pink, and really enjoy how pigmented it is. Snoot was probably the other redundant purchase- I know I probably have shades like it in my collection, but I can't deny the quality of this one. 

Finally, Mother Dragon. I love this color and am so pleased to have it. 

All in all, I very much enjoy the matte formula especially of my collection. I think the shimmers are beautiful, but I am not yet sold on the different formulations they are using. I tend to prefer a drier shimmer, because I feel I have more control, but these are definitely wetter. Still, the colors are like nothing else in my collection. 

I will continue to keeping track of Menagerie Cometics' releases. I am certain they will keep coming up with fun things. 

Have you tried any of their products yet? Let me know your thoughts below! 

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